5 days ago8 min read

THE TASTING CHAMBER

My visit to the IVDP in Porto and Quinta do Bomfim, Douro

Imagine going to work every day to be confronted with a workplace line-up as above and to spend the whole morning "simply" Tasting Port Wine. What sounds like a dream vocation for many is most certainly not for the faint hearted. An official IVDP (The Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto or Douro and Port Wine Institute. IP) Wine Taster of which only eight of the 120 employees hold the prestigious title, go through a rigorous training period of 18 months. During this time they bid farewell to their smellies, from perfumed shower-gel to JOOP aftershave and may also have to rethink morning rituals such as tea or coffee consumption, also the use of peppermint toothpaste.

Wine Tasters at the IVDP are also subject to annual health and dental screenings. They work in what`s known as a Chamber so if all that still turns you on, you are obviously a good candidate for the job. I personally, am likely to decline.

On a recent trip to Portugal, I wanted to delve a little deeper into the subject of Port Wine.

Wines worldwide are subject to strict rules and regulations before they hit the market, and Port Wine and DOC (Denominação de Origem Controlada ) Wines from the Douro Valley are no exception. Port is a fortified wine but first vinified somewhere within the 250.000 hectares of the demarcated Douro Valley, to then be transported to Porto for up to decades of aging.

The Douro region of Portugal has been the origin of good wine since the roman times, yet the expression Port Wine only appeared on the scene during the second half of the 17th century. Viticulture in the Douro was expanding at the time due to an increase in export demand and mainly thanks to the British who happened to be in clinch with the French. Forced to search further afield for their tipple, Portugal proved a suitable source. In the 14th century, the Treaty of Windsor had already established a healthy relationship between both countries so when the Methuen Treaty was signed in 1703, English interest in Portuguese wines were reinforced. The second Treaty introduced tariff reductions, leading in turn to preferential treatment over wines from France. Soon British Port lodges were popping up in Porto and Port Wine became the regions` primary product. In accordance with demand, by the late 17th century and early 18th century, Portuguese wine production was booming.

It wasn`t long before it became necessary to introduce new grape varieties to cope with the insatiable english thirst. Unfortunately this led to a reduction in quality and consequently a loss of custom. Seeing their livelihoods threatened, large Douro winegrowers put pressure on the government demanding action.

Seeking to ensure quality, wipe out corruption and restabilise prices, on 10th September 1756 the General Company for Agriculture of the Vineyards of the Alto Douro was established. This became the first demarcation process and quality control concept to be introduced worldwide, today known as Protected Designation of Origin or PDO. Over 300 stone boundary markers were produced, engraved and erected during the following 3 years.

One of these markers, which dates back to 1758, proudly and symbolically adorns the IVDP foyer today. The boundary stones provided a physical border within which grapes were to be grown solely for Port Wine production. Outside the demarcation areas this was strictly prohibited.

Initially, the IVDP was set up on 10. April 1933 under the name: The Port Wine Institute (IVP). Louisa Fry, a legend within the Institution herself, has worked there now for 34 years and was kind enough to give us a detailed insight and exclusive tour of the premises.

The IVDP main headquarters are in Peso da Régua where the focus is on Terroir, the wineries and the vineyards, yet both locations are responsible for quality control, certification, protecting and defending the protected Douro and Port Designations of Origin (PDO) and the Douro Geographic Indication (PGI) worldwide, including all legal issues which may arise.

The professional Wine Tasters go through constant training not only in The Tasting Chamber, but also in the use of their equipment. This is calibrated solely for the scrutiny of Port Wine and Douro DOC. Each sample receives a number and a bar code on arrival at the Institute, saving data purely for the reason for submission. Analysis reasons may include new certification, authorisation for export with specific regulations, a discrepancy following inspection or simply license renewal. The Laboratory Team now has all necessary information for further procedures, as does The Tasting Chamber.

The final Seal of Guarantee is awarded once all appropriate criteria have been met. The Tasters must not only constantly analyse the products presented, but also undergo permanent monitoring themselves. The pressure is on, this is serious business and anything from a common cold or tasty garlic butter the previous evening can affect their analytical expertise.

The IDVP has a rigid framework strictly defining tasting methods which must be followed at all times. Procedures range from simple aroma identification, through to wine-style profiles, recognising specific components of Port Wine and Douro DOC Wines to include both colour and possible wine faults. All results are recorded digitally. In comparison to equipment, humans can`t be programmed, so the IVDP Quality Control Departments` greatest challenge is retaining result consistency. The system monitors all inconsistencies and if identified, a Taster may even be pulled out for extra training.

Food Safety Control and Consumer Health are important issues. With Consumer Protection in mind, the IVDP keeps a watchful eye on the market, rapidly identifying low quality or fake products. Older vintages can also prove a challenge, as the results vary in comparison to more recent vintages.

30 years ago, vineyards were managed in quite a different fashion as is the case today. Lead and copper levels are likely to be higher due to the vineyard management approach of the time which must be taken into consideration.

Unacceptable additives, although a rarity, might be detected. Caramel, for example, has been known to increase the impression of a Tawny Port. Even the 77 % abv (alcohol by volume) Grape-Spirit or “Aguardente” used in fortification undergoes scrutiny. This is mainly produced today in Central Portugal or imported from Spain.

The entire evaluation process takes approximately five days before the producer can expect a result, although fast-track is also possible at additional cost. If not satisfied with the outcome the winemaker can appeal. In this case his wine is admitted to a higher court consisting of 4 independent (and expensive) tasters and whose verdict is final.

In recognition of their work and their contribution to Quality Control in Portugal, in December 2022 the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto. IP (IDVP) were rightly awarded the European Foundation for Quality Management. The Porto and Douro Interactive Learning Centre is a great location should you fancy delving a little deeper into the fascinating World of Port Wine Production. If in Porto just call in advance as this is available just about all year round and may be combined with a guided tour and a visit to the Port Wine Bar.

Many thanks Louisa for your time, the tasting and the captivating insight into the work of the IDVP. My warm felt best wishes for your retirement - not that I really believe you`ll be leaving too soon!

QUINTA DO BOMFIM

An article about Port Wine would not be complete without a recommendation. There are endless tasting opportunities both in Porto and the Douro Valley, famous names and smaller producers alike.

The Symington Family of both British and Portuguese ancestry is one of the world's leading Premium Port Wine producers. Quinta do Bomfim and home to the infamous and legendary Dow’s Vintage Port is situated on the Douro River at Pinhão. In the 1960`s, the Symington’s found it a challenge to produce and tread all their wine as is tradition, in granite Lagares. The solution: investment and modernisation in the form of stainless-steel auto-vinificators, which are still in use over 50 years on.

In 2015 a new modern Lagar winery was erected consisting of 6 new Lagares, each with the same capacity as the original stone versions. These open stainless steel vinification tanks have automated treaders (a bit like paddles) which replace and simulate the gentle treading normally done manually by foot. These shallow vinification tanks` large surface area enhances skin contact during fermentation, particularly important for the production of Port Wine and viewable in action if you get the chance to pop by, which I highly recommend you do.

Wine Tourism Manager Maria Azevedo kindly organised our Tour and Tasting which was led by Bomfim’s excellently trained Wine Guide Daniela Ventura. We received not only a warm welcome on arrival, but experienced a highly professional and very informative Tour. Daniela, who spoke perfect English, knew the ins and outs of Port Wine production like the inside of a Port Wine Pipe (an oak barrel used for maturation) and kindly treated us to both a Wine- and a Port-Wine-Tasting at the end of our visit.

Altano Naturalmente 2023 Branco: a crisp white wine with plenty of citrus and green apple notes. Floral on the palate and a hint of nutmeg despite the solid acidic structure. A blend of Malvasia Fina, Viosinho, Rabigato and Moscatel Galego.

Quinta do Ataíde 2018 Estate Wine: a fresh Douro blend whereby Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca set the main stage. An already mature red wine aged in French oak barrels for 10-12 months, good tannin structure and full of fruity blackberry, cherry and wild strawberries.

Quinta do Vesuvio DOC Douro 2021: a blend of Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and just 2% Tinta Amarela. With 14,5 % alcohol this is a rich red Douro DOC, fairly high in acidity (on the whole, this was a cool vintage in Douro terms) yet fine lingering tannins, black cherry and black currant on both nose and palate. A dark chocolaty mouthfeel and a hint of tobacco enhance complexity.

Quinta do Vesuvio DOC Douro 2021 was my favourite of the flight.

Warres Quinta da Cavadinha 2005 Vintage Port: from one of the finest Quintas in the Pinhao Valley. Spicy with jammy red fruit, a complex and elegant Port with a persistent finish.

Graham`s Quinta dos Malvedos 2010 Vintage : ripe red fruit, minty-eucalyptus, bittersweet chocolate and a peppery bite. Great aging potential with the typical characteristics of a Grahams Port. Graham`s recommend one enjoys within 2-3 days of opening. Challenge on 😉
Dow`s Quinta do Bomfim 2010 Vintage: delicately floral, a touch of mint, ripe cassis and blackberries – rich but just off-dry. The Wine Enthusiast gave this tasty pleasure 92/100 points describing as follows: "A firm and structured wine, showing complex tannins as well as contrasting acidity. It feels complete, the tannins supporting red cherry and spice flavours. It is probably not for long-term aging but will start to taste delicious in 6–7 years."

In consideration of my baggage allowance, I treated myself to just one bottle, but for some reason my purchase was not destined to last anywhere near 7 years…