TROLLBACHTAL, Nahe
The Culture and Wine Ambassadors of the German Wine-Growing Region Nahe recently published an interesting Collection of their “Favourite Haunts” to which I happily made a contribution and hence invite you to join me on a short stroll, so get those boots on!
Did you know that in Germany, at least up until the 1970`s, you could get your wine on prescription? If this would still be the case, I`d definitely insist on mine being from the NAHE-Wine-Growing-Region of Germany. To be precise; from „Troll Valley“ and my home of the past 35 years.
Although I haven’t yet spotted a single Goblin, Gnome nor Kobold (the English translation for Troll), a few of the locals do spring to mind when hearing such terms.
In this pretty hidden away valley, a small sidearm of the river Nahe, you`ll come across impressive rock formations which have been given some quite strange names: Nikolaus (St. Nick), die Drei Kamele (3 camels) and Eierfelsen (Egg-Rock) about which I can explain everything when you visit.
More apparent when driving through the geologically interesting Nahe valley though, are the number of vineyards. Not just any old vineyards either. No less than three classified Grand Cru single sites are found here in the Trollbachtal and with them of course, several excellent Estate Wineries to which I have become a regular visitor.
The NAHE-Wine-Growing-Region of Germany with its mild climate, geological diversity thus an abundance of differing soil conditions, the valleys undulating hills and meandering waterways, grapes of all shapes, sizes, colour and variety and of course, the innovative and dedicated Vintners easily competes with the best of sites worldwide. Should you doubt my judgement due to my English roots, then I suggest you come and find out for yourselves.
I have 30 years of experience under my belt. In wine-tasting, comparing notes and wines, in exploring and simply enjoying. The poor woman, I hear you saying… and yes, every vintage is different which makes it such a fascinating subject.
Some vineyard site names here imply literally a wealth of past history: PITTERMAENNCHEN - was an old silver coin, GOLDLOCH - suggests a Goldmine, and it seems there was one - but for copper, BURGBERG - the castle on the hill. Centuries ago the valley was indeed an important trade route between the river Rhine and the nearby wooded Hunsrueck. The small castle of Burg Layen, built in the 12th century to not only protect this route, but also home to the bunch of knights living there at the time and may still be seen today.
BURG LAYEN, an unobtrusive settlement which once had its own mill and in days gone by, was a reliable source of income for the Landlords, now stands in ruins. The castle and the Mill, including much surrounding land and buildings are now owned by two vintner families and certainly well worth a visit.
I recommend you take a stroll through the vineyards here in spring, I`ll even accompany you too if you like. At this time of the year the blooming vines are a wonderful sight and bursting into life filling the air with the sweet scent of blossom.
Following the dormant winter period the vineyards are coming to life and with them, other inhabitants such as insects, birds and unfortunately, natural pests like wild boar.
In summer everything is green, lush, full of vitality and the small clusters herald what is yet to come. In the autumnal approaching harvest time the foliage transcends from green to orange, from orange to red and the vines are laden with plump, juicy, ripening grapes.
The hustle and bustle accompanying the birth of a new vintage fills the warm air with tense, nervous anticipation. A long year of hard, possibly nerve-wracking work depending on the weather, is reaching its` peak.
Take a seat on one of the benches situated along the many pathways. Breathe in the atmosphere and on doing so, enjoy one of the many racy Rieslings from these slatey, mineral laden sites.
Or perhaps you`d rather go for something a little less acidic. In which case I recommend a light but fruity Pinot Blanc or a luscious Pinot Gris with a bit more grips.
Both varieties grow well on the higher slopes here, where the soils contain more limestone and clay. From Riesling to Regent, Chardonnay to Pinot Noir, there`s something for all tastes and wallet. A pleasurable feast, a new wine experience awaits you.
You won`t necessarily find all Vintners at home if you spontaneously drop by, as they are very busy chaps. But if you are lucky enough to catch them, they won`t send you away.
The best time to try all the delights of this beautiful valley is most certainly on the Whitsun-Bank-Holiday Weekend.
Das WEINHÖFEFEST is a must for all wine lovers visiting Germany at this time of year and ideal for all age-groups. From Live Music to Culinary Highlights, an Old-Timer Vintage Car Display and sporty events, this is the perfect opportunity to try practically all our local winegrowers`wines in good company, a wonderful atmosphere and all in walking distance. Talking of walking, I lead the Vineyard stroll too being for me personally, a yearly highlight.
So check your calendar and if you haven`t already, save the date!
I look forward to seeing you there, I think it`s your round anyway.
Bottoms up!
Gail
Read this and many more Nahe-Land-Tips: Lieblingsplätze der Kultur- und Weinbotschafter Nahe (2. Auflage) 164 Seiten, 17 Euro, Verlag Matthias Ess (ISBN 978-3-945676-50-9)